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One-hit wonder


Holi Moli Ravioli offers more than a dozen variations of ... guess what?

UNION-TRIBUNE STAFF WRITER

October 9, 2008

La Jolla restaurateurs Luca Mazzolani and Deborah Odle wanted to branch out. So, they decided to hone in.

When the partners of Barolo Ristorante Italiano opened their quick-casual eatery in a Poway strip mall this summer, they credited their inspiration to a single dish: the popular pear ravioli from their La Jolla restaurant.

Warming to a theme of pillows of goodness, Mazzolani created more than a dozen variations of stuffed pasta for the Holi Moli Ravioli menu.

Diners can choose a mini portion (five ravioli, which is ample for lunch) or a regular serving of nine ravioli. From there, the setup is such that any food brat should be able to customize a meal the way he or she wants.

Simply select a ravioli (such as the ricotta, parmesan and spinach nestled between two thin whole-wheat pasta squares; roasted pumpkin; lobster broccoli; or potato leek). Then, hit the sauce – lobster bisque, meat, brown butter with sage, spicy Arrabbiata, mushroom sherry, pesto or pink, among others.

One of the most popular sellers is the Asian Ravioli, a mix of ground chicken and cilantro paddling in coconut cream red curry sauce. The pear ravioli are slightly sweet pillows stuffed with mascarpone, cream, sun-dried tomatoes, walnuts and fresh pear.

the buzz > > > > > > > >

HOLI MOLI RAVIOLI

13307 Poway Road, Poway; (858) 679-9883 or holimoliravioli.com

11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, closed Sunday.

THE FOOD: Ravioli. (Really. Did the restaurant's name not tip you off?)

THE SCENE: This is one diminutive hole-in-the-wall. You're better off taking away food or eating at one of the outdoor tables.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Ravioli $4.75 to $9, depending on size and type; non-ravioli offerings, such as spaghetti or lasagna, $5 to $6.50; salads $1.95 to $6.50; desserts $1.95 to $2.50.

DON'T MISS: Pear ravioli, pumpkin ravioli, cheese and spinach ravioli.

Yes, there are a few non-ravioli offerings – penne, spaghetti, fettuccine, all sauced with your choice of hearty meat or bechamel – but is that really what you want from a place called Holi Moli Ravioli?

Of course, it's permissible to augment your ravioli with some greenery, such as the Mediterranean Salad with spinach, onion, tomato, walnuts and goat cheese; or the traditional Caprese, with sliced mozzarella, tomato and basil.

In the looks department, this eatery ain't no beaut. Its fast-food atmosphere and cramped quarters make it more appealing to sit at one of the tables outdoors and watch the strip-mall traffic whiz by, or to tote the food home.

The ravioli also comes in utilitarian plastic containers that can be heated in the microwave. If this – and the accompanying plastic forks – do not appeal to your dining aesthetic, that's more reason still to tote your supper home and transfer it to plates.

No alcohol is served here, but you can slake your thirst with a fountain drink or a choice of Italian sparkling waters, including lemon or orange-flavored Pellegrino. Tiramisu, profiteroles, panna cotta and a deep-fried chocolate ravioli make up the modest dessert menu. The straightforward rendition of tiramisu, with mascarpone cheese and lady fingers soaked in espresso and brandy, makes for a sweet ending.

 


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